What Happens When A House Isn't Vented Properly?

I received a phone call this morning from a lady who said mold had begun forming in their attic. Now, that isn't uncommon, but the way she said it made it seem as though it was a lot of mold. She said it had just started recently and was quickly getting worse.

So, as usual, I set a time to meet her at the house and look at the problem. To her and her husband (he's been in the attic to see the problem), it appeared that there was a roof leak; and through this roof leak, mold had formed on the underside of the roof decking (1/2" plywood). When I went into the attic, what I saw was bright gray and greenish-gray mold growing on the plywood. And it wasn't a little spot, it was the whole front of the house. I've been in thousands of attics, literally, and I've seen mildew and mold on plywood, but this was one of the worse.

Now came the obvious question: What was causing it? Was it a roof leak? And if so, where was the water coming from and why was it causing that much condensation? Again, I've seen tons of leaks in attics and they don't cause this much mold, not even really bad leaks.

Upon further inspection, and after some general questions, I discovered that they had new vinyl windows installed about 2-3 years ago. Also, I realized that there was no ventilation in the attic and the soffits were wrapped in vinyl and vented poorly. So basically, the moisture that used to be able to flow out naturally was being trapped in the house and attic with nowhere to go. It is equivalent to taking something steaming and wrapping it in a plastic bag.

The house was suffocating.

Ideally, when the windows were installed, the contractor would have informed the homeowners of the downside to air-sealing a home, and either fixed it or referred them to someone who could. Think about it: the moisture from taking a bath and doing dishes and washing clothes has to go somewhere. Now don't get me wrong, new vinyl windows are an excellent idea, but make sure you have proper ventilation all around the house or they can cause major problems.

What did we do to fix this ladie's problem? You'll have to wait....I'll post the solution soon.

In the meantime, check out this post I wrote earlier this year, titled, "Ventilation is Vital to the Life of Your House."

Roy Bauer

New Project: Ranch Style House in Columbia, SC

Not every home we put a new roof system on requires us to do a lot of woodwork, but most houses have some. The homeowners knew there was potential for some plywood that needed to be replaced --from people walking on it and from the representative from Bauer Roofing inspecting the attic-- so it was no surprise when a few sheets, 5 or 6 to be exact, had to be replaced. As you can see from the pictures, the wood was delaminated --coming un-glued-- in spots and was replaced with new pieces. Also, the ridge vent was causing some rotten wood and problems on the inside of the house, so a different type was installed; one that would would work better, longer.

One of the main concerns was a leak that was coming through the ceiling in the living room. The leak was due to a problem with a furnace vent right smack in the middle of a valley. To aleviate this problem, the vent was sealed and CertainTeed Winterguard (valley-liner) was installed the whole lenghth of the valley. We always install valley liners in areas where water or leaves can collect, causing water to get in the house.

I've included pictures of the house in progress. 

If you live in South Carolina and would like for a representative from Bauer Roofing to look at your house, please call us at 803-955-0374 or fill out this simple Estimate Request Form.

Roy Bauer

Roofing Sooner Rather Than Later

Almost always when I knock on a door this is what the customer says, “We were just curious if we needed a new roof. I’m not sure how old it is, it just looks a little rough.” They go on to say, “Just look at it and let me know what a ballpark figure would be, we may do it now if it is within our budget or we’ll wait until next year, it depends.”

Does any of that sound familiar?

I’ll let you in on a little secret: roofing prices don’t go down. Whatever you pay 3 months from now will be more than today. That happens for two reasons: 1) If you have a leak of any size, it will only get worse. And roofing is a lot cheaper than doing a roof and replacing your ceilings. 2) Shingles have two types of asphalt in them, and asphalt comes from OIL.

Most homeowners don’t realize that shingle prices have just about doubled since March. On a 35 square house that is significant. And that is just the cost of the shingles. Add to it the cost of underlayment, ridge vent (vinyl) and delivery and you see why the sooner you do it the better.

If you have a regular 3-tab shingle and it is older than 15 years it may very well be time to get it done. Once you know you have to have a roof, everyday you procrastinate will cost you money. I know that sounds harsh but it is the truth. Search shingle prices or roofing costs and see what has happened to them.

If you don’t need a roof then this article is not for you. I am talking to those homeowners who are simply waiting for a future arbitrary time to do it. Go a head and get your ducks in a row. Meet with the roofing contractors and make a decision one way or the other. Don’t rush and make a bad decision, but getting roofers out to your home shouldn’t take more than a week, two at the most. If they haven’t called you back or say it will be a month, then move on. If a roofer is a month out to look at your house then there is an internal problem with the roofing company. If he won’t call you back when you are trying to give him money, do you think he’ll call back when there is a warranty claim? Find someone else.

There are fantastic articles on this blog about choosing a roofer. Things to look for When buying a new roof is a great one to begin with.

Spend time with each and every roofer that comes out. Walk around the house with them, go in the attic with them. Find out how they specifically do things. If they won’t meet with you at the house or indicate it isn’t necessary to meet then hang up and move on to the next one. There are plenty of companies out there who care about customer satisfaction and want homeowners to have all of the information possible.

The more time you spend with a roofer the easier it will be to make the right decision.

Go ahead and get it done, what are you waiting for?

Things to Look For When Buying a New Roof

If you are in a hurry you can skip down to the list, but I encourage you to read the reasons for the list first. It will help shed some light on why it is important to look for certain things. It may also help you to understand why you have been so frustrated with buying a new roof.

The Reason for Needing The List:

Yesterday I met with a homeowner who was confused about the specifications on his new roof. He had already met with a few roofers, he didn’t say how many, and each one seemed to be doing something different.

Some of them wanted to put in a ridge vent. Some wanted to leave his one power fan. Some wanted to tear off the old shingles but leave the old felt. Some wanted to leave the shingles. In the valleys, some wanted to put ice and watershield, some didn’t even mention it. Some said gutters would help with the water runoff, and some said a rain diverter would be fine. Some wanted to run the ridge vent to the edge and some wanted to stop it a few feet short. And I could go on and on.

When you start the process of buying a new roof it is confusing. You have questions like, “Who do I call?” “What shingle do I use?” “What should I pay?”

And you would think that as the process moved forward the confusion would subside and you’d be left with a simple task of picking the one you like.

Yeah right, the further along in the process you go the more confused or frustrated you get. And at the end you are sitting there with 4 estimates, with a huge range in price and specifications, and you still have no idea what to do.

If this is you, you are not alone. In fact, you are in the majority, and this explains why the internet has thousands upon thousands of articles and information on choosing a contractor; because we, as roofers, are self-serving idiots when it comes to helping homeowners decide what is best for their house.

We, again as roofers, either don’t take the time to explain why we are doing what we are doing, or we haven’t learned enough to know why we do what we do. Some of us just do it a certain way, whether right or wrong, because that is the area standard or that is how our dad did it.

On behalf of all roofers, I apologize. I am sorry that we actually make a difficult buying decision worse.

So, what I want to do is give you the information you should have been given in the beginning. The information that focuses on what really matters: you, your house and what is best for it.

The List of Things To Look For When Buying a New Roof:

** A Note: This list is assuming you are interested in buying an asphalt roof. If you are considering a metal roof, which is a good idea, all of this applies except #2 (What Shingle?). I’ll post a separate list of things to look for when considering a metal roof, but this one first. If you are interested metal roofing, click here, but first read this list.

  1. Do you need one? Sounds obvious, but make sure. How do you know if you need a new roof, or if a repair is good enough? These 3 things will determine if you need a new one or not.
    1. How old are the shingles? If they are older than 10-15 years then repairing won’t do much good.
    2. Is it leaking in one spot or all over the house? This may not be visible from the inside but from the attic (ask the roofer to look through the attic and see)
    3. If they are curling or buckling it is time to replace the roof because once a shingle starts pulling up it won’t reseal and it will begin allowing water to get in.
  2. What Shingle Should I Install and Should I Tear Off The Old Roof? That sounds like a loaded question, doesn’t it? I’m not talking about what manufacturer but what type; 3-tab or architectural. In short, at least from what we’ve seen here in South Carolina, 3 –tab shingles won’t last more than about 10-15 years. In many cases, less than that.
    1. What Shingle?
      1. Why not 3-Tab Shingles? 1) they have slots in them that leave a portion of your roof with only one layer. The slots also are the reason there are so many corners on a shingle (isn’t that what is curling?”). 2) they are thin.
      2. Architectural shingles are laminated, meaning 2 (or 3 or 4) pieces are glued together to make the shingle the way it is. What that means to you is this: it has no slots in it. There aren’t any corners to curl up and no areas left with only one layer of shingle. Yes there is a tiny space in between each shingle, but that is inconsequential compared to the gaps left in a 3-tab shingle
    2. Do I Tear off My Old Roof? My answer is YES. For two reasons
      1. The manufacturer admits there are advantages:

        For example:

        • If there are any defects in the roof deck, they will be revealed when the roof is torn off. These defects should be repaired before applying the new roof.
        • If condensation problems exist in the attic, they too will be revealed when the roof is torn off. Properly designed attic ventilation can then be installed in order to help eliminate such problems.
        • When the old roof is torn off, waterproofing shingle underlayment can be installed before applying the new roof. This will help protect against leaks created by cyclical ice damage and wind-driven rain. (CertainTeed)
      2. From a practical stand point, I want to know, as a roofer, what I am dealing with. If you leave the old roof on then there are unknowns that I am not comfortable with. Besides the fact that the shingles on top will look older then they really are, if you leave the old roof on, any rotten wood around a chimney won’t be seen. I can’t confidently look a homeowner in the eye and tell them it is a good idea to leave the shingles on when installing a new asphalt roof. One note on tearing off the old felt. Here is South Carolina, roofers, sadly, are famous for tearing off the shingles and leaving the old felt. It is absolutely ridiculous the level of incompetence and outright selfishness that would allow a roofer to tell a homeowner they are tearing everything off and then leave the 20+ year old felt on there. There is no reason given that even remotely makes up for the lack of sense and laziness this takes.
  3. Is Ventilation Important? And if so, Then What Type? Making sure the attic is properly ventilated is essential when having a new roof installed. If you don’t have adequate ventilation in your attic, the manufacturer won’t give you a warranty on your shingles. Or, if they do, it will be a very limited one. Proper ventilation in a house is one of the most important things you can have. It will keep the house cooler, saving you money on air-conditioning, and it will keep the moisture level in check, saving your insulation from losing R-Value (which will keep heat from escaping in the winter). But there some very important things to consider when updating your ventilation. I have posted on this topic before so I am just going to place a link to it here. Read it. It may really help keep you from letting a roofer do something stupid to your house, like install a ridge vent and leave the old turbines or power fans.
  4. Who Should Be Installing My Roof? Isn’t this the mother of all questions? Because if you get the right contractor, won’t everything else fall into place? So how do we know who the right person is? Make sure you put as much research into the Contractor you are hiring as you do the shingle he is installing! Here are some things to look for and questions to ask:
    1. Do they have a permanent place of business?
    2. Do they carry insurance and is the coverage adequate?
    3. Are they a licensed, registered contractor and in good standing with the trade association and Better Business Bureau?
    4. How long have they been in business as the same company? (a lot of roofers close down due to complaints and law suits and open up under another name)
    5. What is their record for complaint resolution?
    6. What is their workmanship warranty? (don’t believe a 10-20 year warranty when the company isn’t even that old)
    7. Do they provide sufficient details for the project being performed?
    8. How do they handle unforeseen or unknown extra costs?
    9. Can they provide references for you to talk to?
  5. How Do I Know The Price I’m Paying is Fair For What I’m Getting? Unless you buy roofs all of the time, and you might, how do you know the roofer is not trying to rip you off? You would think getting multiple estimates would help, and it could, but usually you end up with 4 estimates ranging from $5,000 to $12,000 and they are all doing something different. So there really is no way to compare on price, which is hard because comparing price is all we as consumers know how to do. If everything were equal; the specifications were the same, the insurance was the same, the shingle was the same, then comparing on price is easy, but that just isn’t the case very often. Here are some questions to ask and/or things to look for when deciding if the price you are given is fair for the job they are doing:
    1. Has the contractor done work in the neighborhood? Nothing will spread faster through a neighborhood then someone ripping people off. If they haven’t worked in the neighborhood then talk to people, with a house like yours, that he has worked for.
    2. Has the contractor done houses similar to yours? Here in South Carolina, like most areas, we have neighborhoods that are twenty-five years old and some that are a hundred. Make sure the contractor has a handle on the specifics of houses like yours or he could be estimating it too high or too low, both are bad.
    3. Make sure you know what is included and what isn’t. Get a price per linear foot or square foot (whether it is a board roof or a plywood roof) up front so you know what to expect if they find something rotten around the chimney. Be leery of roofers who say all of the woodwork is included. Think about it…how is that possible unless they have a crystal ball? What happens if they find more woodwork than they expected? Basically you get screwed because he won’t be doing it.

Now obviously following this list of things to look for won’t insure you have a problem-free roofing experience, but it should be pretty close.

What is the Best Type of Attic Ventilation For My House?

Ventilation Requirements

According to most building codes, you need one square foot of vent area for each 150 square feet of attic floor space. The minimum is one square foot for every 300 square feet of attic floor space if there is a vapor retarder or the space is balanced between the ridge and intake vents. A balanced ventilation system means about 50 percent of the required ventilating area should be provided by exhaust vents in the upper portion of your attic with the remaining 50 percent provided by intake vents.

Ventilation: Exhaust vs. Intake

The above requirements are from Air Vent Inc and are the same as most every roofing ventilation manufacturer and most state building codes. I am in South Carolina, so yours may be a little different. But the main thing is to make sure you not only have a place for air to escape your attic, but also for air to enter. Just like a car engine has intake and exhaust, an attic has to have the same thing. If the air in your attic sits still it will condensate and cause serious damage to the shingles, sheathing, insulation and ceilings. Ventilation works best if there is at least as much room for air to enter the attic as there is for it to leave.

Air exhausts through power fans, dormers, turbines or ridge vent. Air comes in through soffit vents in the overhang of the house. Most homes built in the last 30 years or so, at least here in South Carolina, will have eaves that either have soffit vents or room to add them. On older homes, or bungalow style houses, you may have to put in a vented drip edge or plugs or something. If you aren’t sure what your house has, look out the window and look up. If you see vents then you should be fine; if not, then ask your contractor to evaluate the situation.

Which Type of Exhaust Ventilation is Best

It depends on the house, but I’ll explain what that means.

If you have a house like this brown brick house below, then ridge vent won’t do you a bit of good because there isn’t enough linear feet of ridge to vent a house this size. But, as you can see, the builder put a ridge vent on it and we had to change the type of ventilation when we re-roofed it. On this house, and any like it, the best option is most likely a power fan, either wired or solar-powered. They come in different strengths and material. They also can come thermostatically and/or humidistatically controlled. As for solar-powered vs. wired, that is for another day. Just understand that with a wired power fan, unless it is also regulated by humidity, it won’t run in the winter when moisture can be a problem. For that reason, some prefer a solar-powered fan –plus it doesn’t take electricity to run it.

But if you have a house like this one with the red roof, then ridge vent is most likely your best option because there appears to be enough ridge to meet the ventilation requirements from the roofing manufacturer.

Above I said it appears to be, because you really don’t know for sure until the attic is inspected and it is determined that the house has the ability for ridge vent to be installed. Your roofing contractor, hopefully, will go in the attic and look to make sure. That isn’t something you want them to guess on.

You could also put turbines on this house as well and be fine, but you would need about 8 of them. Air Vent Inc says 42 linear feet of ridge is equal to 5 turbines, so on a house that is 65 feet wide then you’d need about 8. (Remember that 15 roof louvers or 5 turbine vents would be needed to provide the same ventilation as 42 feet of ridge vent on the same house– Air Vent Inc) That would make your house look like a mushroom field.

Many roofers install ridge vent on homes that have no business having it on there, but they, roofers, just assume that ridge vent is a cure-all and don’t have any idea that it isn’t right for the house.

There are formulas that determine exactly how much ventilation is needed and which type of ventilation is best for the house. I’ll post a link to them at the bottom.

Mixing Different Types of Ventilation

But, one of the dumbest things I see roofers do is add ridge vent to a home and leave the turbines or power fans in place. I can only assume they believe you can never have too much ventilation. But, even as a casual observer, you can see from these pictures that it can’t be a good idea to have two different types of ventilation on the roof at the same time

Exhaust ventilation –ridge vents, turbines and power fans– pull air from the nearest air source. If there is no other type of exhaust vents on the roof then the ridge vent will pull air in through the soffit vents in the eaves, up the wood and back out the ridge. But if you add a turbine or power fan, it becomes the nearest air source and the ridge vent will merely circulate air at the top; and the bottom 2/3 of the house will be stagnate. It will essentially short circuit the air flow and negate any advantage it could have provided.

Also with a power fan, when it is running, it will pull air in through the ridge vent.

Calculating the Amount of Ventilation You Need, Both Exhaust and Intake

Air Vent recommends 1 square foot of attic ventilation for every 150 square feet of attic floor space divided evenly between intake vents at the roof’s edge or in the overhang or undereave and exhaust vents at or near the peak of the roof. Here’s what the formula looks like for a 1200 square foot attic space: 1200 divided by 150 = 8 square feet of attic ventilation. Then divide that number by 2 to provide half the ventilation for intake and half for exhaust. Thus, 8 divided by 2 = 4 square feet of attic ventilation for intake and 4 square feet of attic ventilation for exhaust.

The final step is to figure out how many vents would be needed to provide 4 square feet of attic ventilation. To do this let’s start by converting the number to square inches by multiplying by 144. Thus, 4 x 144 = 576 square inches of attic ventilation for intake and 576 for exhaust. Air Vent ridge vents provide 18 square inches of Net Free Area per linear foot. To determine how many feet of ridge vent would be needed the formula looks like this: 576 divided by 18 = 32 feet of ridge vent. A typical 8″ x 16″ undereave vent provides 56 square inches of Net Free Area per vent. To determine how many undereave vents would be needed, the formula looks like this: 576 divided by 56 = 10.2 (which can be rounded up to 11). (From Air Vent Inc)

As for power fans: unless you have a huge attic, one is enough. Power fans can vent attics upwards of 2100 square feet.

Conclusion

Ventilation is needed, recommended and required for a reason. But, like food, too much or the wrong type can be a bad thing. Just because you put something in your mouth does not mean it is good for you. Ventilation is the same way. When you re-roof your home, be sure the contractor does a Ventilation Assessment. That assessment will determine the right type and amount of ventilation for your home.

For Those In South Carolina

If you would like a representative to look at your home to do a ventilation assessment please click here. Also, if you are considering having a new roof installed please click here to have a representative contact you.